Omnivore is a small eatery on St-Laurent Boulevard serving Mid-Eastern cuisine. The menu offers charcoal-grilled kababs, mezzes, salads, and homemade juices. It’s often packed and gets outstanding ratings, so we decided to stop by and see what all the buzz is about.
We went around 2pm on a holiday Monday and there was a steady stream of clientele. The service is fast, however, so there was only a 2-3 person line up to order at the cash and a table opened up for us right away. It’s a funky, colourful little spot with distinct Middle Eastern flare, brightly painted walls, and oriental lamps. It’s super casual with irregular polished slab-wood tables and tons of plants including pots of aromatic herbs. You order at the cash and the food is brought to your table.
There is a nice variety of kebabs on the menu, all made from local, hormone-free meat. I ordered the combo: your choice of pita sandwich, fatouche salad, and a beverage. I chose the signature Beirut pita and the homemade lemonade.
The fatouche salad arrived almost at once. It had a nice flavour of sumac and a hearty variety of veggies on fresh romaine lettuce: Red and yellow pepper strips, cucumbers, tomatoes and radishes. Crisped pita added a nice crunch and the portion size was generous. The vinaigrette was missing the hint of sweetness that often comes from pomegranate molasses in a traditional fatouche salad dressing, but overall it was tasty.
The homemade lemonade was very good. It had the astringent tanginess of fresh lemons and was pleasantly sweet.
The Beirut pita sandwich was fantastic. The beef was tender and perfectly seasoned with an excellent flavour imparted by charcoal grilling. Particularly good were the homemade accoutrements – the pickles, houmous, and sumac onions all appeared to be house-made and couldn’t have been fresher. All-in-all, a fresh, tasty, and satisfying sandwich.
The final verdict? This place is a perfect spot to stop and refresh if you’re shopping and sight-seeing on the Plateau. You’ll love it.
Where: 4351 St Laurent Blvd
When: Monday to Saturday 11AM – 10PM, Sundays 12PM – 8PM (closed on Sundays in winter)